Lost Trails: An Attempt at Rinderhorn (3,449m)
Overview:
Hike: Attempt to summit Rinderhorn (3,449m)
Location: Leukerbad, Switzerland
Starting Point: Gemmi Pass (2,350m), reached via Gemmibahn cable car
Goal: Rinderhorn (3,449m)
Since I don't want to give the impression that my hikes are always a success, let me share a failed attempt this time.
I attempted the Rinderhorn (3,449m) on a sunny late-summer day. Given its altitude, late summer is the ideal season unless you’re prepared for snow. I hadn't slept well and was feeling tired, but with sunny weekends being rare, I decided to go anyway.
Starting the Hike
The journey begins in Leukerbad (1,450m), where you take the Gemmibahn cable car up to Gemmi Pass (2,350m). At the pass, a hut clings to the cliffside, and there's a suspended viewing platform that adds an adrenaline rush for tourists. The area offers several activities, including Switzerland’s longest via ferrata, which climbs the Daubenhorn, standing opposite the Rinderhorn.
Navigating a Vanishing Trail
The path became trickier within 100 meters, disappearing into a maze of loose gravel and rocks. I followed my map tentatively. After an initial climb, the trail was supposed to level out and cut left. Sticking to the map, I eventually found the path again.
The valley steepened considerably, and the loose gravel made walking difficult. For nearly two hours, I struggled upwards until reaching Rindersattel at 2,900m. From here, the path became clearer, cutting right along a ridge, marked by tall cairns.
Struggles with Fatigue and Altitude
At this point, I started feeling the effects of altitude and lack of sleep. I moved slower than expected but pushed forward, following the cairns. The hike is not well known, and I was almost completely alone despite the perfect weather. After a short snack break, I continued along the ridge, admiring the stunning views.
Eventually, I reached a beautiful glacial lake at 3,200m. The summit seemed close, so despite my exhaustion, I continued.
The Turning Point
Here’s where I lost the path again. The landscape changed from loose rocks to solid rock slabs. I followed a small ridge after the lake but suddenly hit a sheer rock wall. The trail couldn't possibly go that way. I looked around but saw no clear path. Two other hikers arrived, equally confused. We attempted to descend slightly but were stopped by a steep snowfield.
I had crampons, but the snowfield looked dangerous, especially alone. Some people had used this route, but it wasn’t the official path. At 11:30 AM—late for a 3,000m+ peak—I decided to call it a day. The other two hikers also turned back.
A Serene Rest Before the Descent
I sat by the glacial lake, eating my sandwich in absolute calm. After resting, I felt a bit stronger and decided to climb the small rock wall blocking me earlier. Sure enough, from above, I spotted cairns marking the correct route. The path likely continued for another 30–40 minutes along a rocky ridge, possibly crossing the top edge of the snowfield.
But by then, it was too late. I retraced my steps, descending the way I had come. Back at the lake, I rewarded myself by plunging my feet into the icy water. By 2 PM, families had arrived, picnicking on the shore. Circling Daubensee from Gemmi Pass is actually a great family-friendly hike that still offers a high-mountain feel.
Final Descent
This time, I took the lower path along the lake and used the small cable lift back up to Gemmi Pass—even though it saved only about 15 minutes. But hey, I had to make use of my MagicPass!
And so ended my attempt at the Rinderhorn. I didn’t reach the summit, but I still enjoyed breathtaking panoramic views along the way!
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